Author Archives: Devyani Nighoskar

It is 4.00 AM. The alarm rings, but Uday Deshpande is already up and about. Quickly getting ready, he then drives to Shivaji park from his Mahim house and walks into the Shree Samartha Vyayam Mandir which has been his second home for almost sixty years. Proceeding to his office he changes into his coaching attire; black tennis shorts and an orange and a blue shirt and walks out. His students greet him with a unique Namaste – their left hands folded near their chests and palms facing downwards.

The first thing I notice when I walk into D Samson’s Soda joint is a group of old men drowning themselves in fervorous laughter and glasses of ice cream soda. It is late in the afternoon and the rays of the setting sun filter through the end-to-end grilled window of the tiny space, throwing light on their wrinkled, happy faces. They occupy the corner table just beside the picture of Moses that hangs on a blue wall inscribed with a pretty, pink Star of David — perhaps the only remnant of a time that once was.

“My mother recognizes Earthquake tremors instantly. Afterall she has seen two major ones,” Salim Dawood Khatri says, as he lays an exquisitely embroidered blue jacket in front of me. “Only 700 bucks, Madam,” he adds, persuasively.

She walks into the hospital with her 5-year-old daughter. Confused and worried, she patiently waits outside the children’s ward for her turn. Her daughter sits there fidgeting with her fingers as she stares down at the stained mosaic floor, expressionless. The daughter hasn’t been herself lately.

Shubhangi Bhor’s head is buried inside thick files. Dressed in a crisp white shirt and navy blue pants, her shoulders shine with three epaulettes that bear her rank. Her forage cap with a glistening motif of the Mumbai Fire Brigade Logo is kept on the desk.

There are two ways to truly sample the best of this country’s flavours, as overwhelming as the sheer size of the challenge seems. Either you activate the hyper-extrovert in yourself and make friends with as many people from as many different places as you can in the hopes that you’re invited over for a hearty, home-cooked meal.

It was a warm June morning and I had only just managed to get myself out of bed. The pain in my lower abdomen was excruciating and 13-year-old me was still wrapping my head around what was happening to my body.

Three years ago, exactly 5 months after my 18th birthday, I walked into a small, dingy room in a crowded part of Saharanpur, a small town in Western Uttar Pradesh. Making my way up a shabby staircase, I saw heaps of people come down. From businessmen to farmers and labourers, each one seemed content and hopeful, discussing the now so-close-you-could-touch-it Achhe Din, because they had enrolled for the Aadhar Card. Least bothered with the ‘whats and whys’ of Aadhar I simply went and stood in line impatiently on the command of my mother who thought I should get done with the formality.

It was a crimson sunset that evening. The waves lashed at the shore in the distance and the birds took their final flight back home. The coconut trees swayed above me and the narrow, muddy path went far beyond what I could see

It was a crimson sunset that evening. The waves lashed at the shore in the distance and the birds took their final flight back home. The coconut trees swayed above me and the narrow, muddy path went far beyond what I could see. I smiled back at a few village folk who cycled past me with an equally warm smile.

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